Sunday, April 1, 2018

The Windsor encounters, Dead and Alive


The Windsor encounters, Dead and Alive
            They say even a cat can look at a queen. Well, we were not cats but we did have a chance to look at a queen. It was in the winter of 1968. Barbara, the children and I were on our way to visit relatives in Ipswich, an old Roman city 80 miles east of London, and were waiting for our train at the Liverpool Street station in London. There was a delay as we stood on the platform. A very fancy train pulled slowly in, velvet barrier ropes were put in place, and Elizabeth, dogs and kids stepped out onto the platform. We were impressed and thrilled. She really is a looker. What we didn’t know at the time was how close we came to being in the newspaper shot. We were present, just out of view to the right of the scene shown below.

            We had made an effort to be present at other big public events and may have glimpsed her from afar but nothing could compare to this completely serendipitous encounter.
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When we first arrived in England preparing for my studies at Imperial College and Reading University Barbara emphatically stated her intentions, “We will only be here for 104 weekends so we have to have a plan.” The result, as my youngest seven year old son once put it, “Can we see a castle this time instead of a cathedral.” We routinely consulted the Times each week to see what anthem would be featured at the upcoming Sunday services at the various famous worship places within reach. We had favorites among the ecclesiastical composers.
On a number of occasions we attended services at the Guard’s Chapel on Birdcage Walk after watching the changing of the guard on the parade ground in front of the church’s entrance. In those days you could drive right in, find a parking place and stand at the edge of the parade ground until the ceremony was finished, then proceed into the very beautiful but modern church for services.
One Sunday in the spring of 1968, late in our stay, we made the somewhat ambitious plan to attend service at Saint George’s Chapel at Windsor Castle. We had learned from Barbara’s relatives that this was permitted. Her dear aunt Daisy, a retired headmistress, had often told us “to march right in, tell the verger you wished to be seated in the quire.*”  It actually worked. Leaving the older boys behind the three of us set out for Windsor. It wasn’t very far from where we lived in Eastcote. We were all properly attired in our Sunday go to meeting clothes with Patrick in his school uniform.


Arriving at the Henry the VIII gate of the castle in our newly purchased Sunbeam Alpine we informed the colorfully dressed guards of our intention and were directed to park immediately in front of the entrance. As to our beautiful little Alpine think – Get Smart – it was identical to the one driven by Maxwell Smart in the hugely popular TV comedy. We drove this car for 23 years. It is currently being taken around Europe to classic car rallies by its new owner, a retired Swedish air force officer. It is 51 years old this year. The picture below is its current state.

Doing as we were told we requested of the polite but somewhat stern verger that we wished seating in the knight’s seats in the quire if available. He immediately led us up the aisle through the nave past the rude beam and ushered us into three of the twenty four Knights of the Garter’s niches located behind the seats of the choir. To describe these seats as “niches” does not do them justice, they are domains, vast in the implications of their real purpose, but niches they are. Elegant, in carved wood, they individually have a wall on each side preventing the occupant from viewing the person next to him or her. When our dear son had taken his place between us that was the last we saw of him until the end of the service. Each has a bronze plaque identifying the present and past holder of the honor of that seat. Overhead and projecting out into the space above is a pole bearing a large banner with the coat of arms of the current honoree assigned that seat. There are, by law or tradition, only twenty four Knights or Ladies of the Garter. When one dies he or she may be replaced in due course by the monarch. I believe at the current time there are two vacancies.
Oh, and yes, the service was beautiful and the music magnificent, sung by the traditional English Men and Boys choir of twelve boys and eight men.
To describe the Queen’s chapel as a ‘chapel’ is seriously misleading; an especially beautiful cathedral would be a better description. This allows us to fast forward to a later date and segue into more on the Windsor Castle subject.


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In the late seventies Barbara and I decided to become members of the British Monumental Brass Society. We subscribed to all their pubs and purchased reproductions of many of the rubbings and in general followed the interests of this group. We had rubbed about fifty brasses during our stay in England and had recently bought out a failed brass rubbing enterprise in the San Diego tourist area. This consisted of a number of plastic reproductions of various brasses that enabled interested persons to try their hand at rubbing. We eventually gave all this material to the All Souls Episcopal Church in San Diego where for a time they had Saturday classes on brass rubbing. During this period, probably late seventies or early eighties, we made plans to fly to England and attend a week long Meeting of the Society at a small college near Windsor. This is a typical activity for schools closed during the summer; rent out the space to a suitable interested group for a summer meeting. There were a lot of interesting things that went on at that meeting but the most interestingwas our day tour of Windsor and Frogmore, the burial park of the Windsor’s.
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            Our son Patrick says he doesn’t remember much of his stay in England but well remembers our many brass rubbing expeditions. In the pictures below taken several years before our later visit to Windsor we were probably at one of the many beautiful flint churches of East Anglia. These must surely have been our salad days. In those days we would write ahead for permission to come and rub the brasses. The vicar would usually respond immediately in the affirmative. I remember one occasion in East Anglia particularly. When we arrived for our rubbing appointment we were asked if we might do the church a special favor. Of course we said yes. A meeting of very elderly senior citizens had just concluded and many of them needed rides to their homes. We made a number of short trips and delivered the old dears to their domiciles. Then on to the rubbing.



 
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Back to our later tour; our first stop of the day was St George’s Chapel in the grounds of Windsor Castle. This time we were ushered into the Queen’s private worship room up on the left of the altar. This space was about the size of a small parlor with a perforated stone wall facing the altar below. One could easily sit in this room and observe the service. As the lecturer described the place we all took seats where we could find them. I sat myself down on a broad window sill prepared to take in the lecture by our guide, a titled person, an earl or baron perhaps. As he spoke I noticed a large book beside me. Not thinking, I lifted the cover to see if anything was written inside when the speaker shouted out, “Sir, please do not touch that. That is the Queen’s private prayer book.” Well, this cat got to peek into the Queen’s prayer book. I didn’t see anything.
Our final stop of the day was the private graveyard of the Windsors, Frogmore, a small park adjacent to the Castle grounds. The structure at Frogmore houses the elevated catafalque of Queen Victoria with Albert in a lesser arrangement beside her. The building is entirely devoted to Victoria. It has no glass in the windows and the breezes and weather blow freely through. When Elizabeth was very young she visited this place and upon observing a bird fluttering around near the ceiling opined, “That must be Grandmas’ soul up there.”
I asked where Edward the VIII was buried and was told reluctantly that he was outside in the graveyard. Wally was not there yet and they would much prefer that we not visit that site.

That’s the closest this cat ever got to looking at a queen.

* Quire - a little used term in England for the area above the rude beam and below the sanctuary, most often called the choir.